Sump Pump

This proposed route (Sump Pump) follows a natural line just left of Priming the Pump.  It follows a wildly overhanging panel with juggy holds, leading to a crux roof above the third bolt.  Above this crux, the angle declines to less than vertical, with interesting 5.10 face and slab moves up to the horizontal ledge below the final large roof. From here, one could either rappel from the first pitch of Priming the Pump anchors, or head directly into the upper half of Priming the Pump. This proposed route allows a more direct approach into the upper half of Priming, with less rope drag.  There would be no need to stop midway, go off belay, and then pull the rope up and go back on belay to reduce rope drag, as is commonly done by folks trying to climb the entire Priming the Pump route.  The difficulty is about 5.11c, the rock quality and moves are great, and it has been free climbed on top rope.

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required);

The proposed route is located 20 feet left of Priming the Pump (5.11c) and begins where both Trad Kreme and Whipping Post start.  Routes further south, from left to right, include Pen 15, Super Kreme, Whipped Kreme, Rad Kreme, Undertow, Sweet Niblets, Hippopotamus, and Sick for Sleeping.  Routes to the north include Trad Kreme, Whipping Post, Cookies and Kreme, Sookreem, Boys with Power Toys, Family Man, Shalosh, Film Noir, Nasty Boys, and Just Another Boys Climb.

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);

The approach starts with the Fern Canyon Trail, heading towards Bear Peak.  Branch off on the climbing access trail a short distance beyond the Slab overlook area. Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the north and west faces of the Slab, heading uphill (south) another 2 minutes to the base of the proposed route. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);

The descent will be either a 70-foot rappel to the ground from the existing Priming the Pump first pitch anchor, or an approximate 110-foot rappel from the top of the second pitch of Priming the Pump.  The descent trail uses the same approach trail mentioned earlier.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);

The base is mostly rock and gravelly soils as shown in the “Staging” photo. The ground surface is very rocky and mostly devoid of vegetation, except for some trees nearby.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, the line has been thoroughly scoped and climbed free on top rope.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes it has been top roped, and there is little or no loose rock.  The first half is very steep and overhanging, though a top rope could be adequately set up using nearby directional protection.

4 replies
  1. Brett merlin
    Brett merlin says:

    It will be nice having more sub 5.12 routes at this crag. Route looks like a high quality addition.

    Reply
  2. Matt Samet
    Matt Samet says:

    This is a great alternate start to Prime the Pump, with killer rock, and alleviates the rope drag issues. Vote for yes

    Reply

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Sump Pump

This proposed route (Sump Pump) follows a natural line just left of Priming the Pump.  It follows a wildly overhanging panel with juggy holds, leading to a crux roof above the third bolt.  Above this crux, the angle declines to less than vertical, with interesting 5.10 face and slab moves up to the horizontal ledge below the final large roof. From here, one could either rappel from the first pitch of Priming the Pump anchors, or head directly into the upper half of Priming the Pump. This proposed route allows a more direct approach into the upper half of Priming, with less rope drag.  There would be no need to stop midway, go off belay, and then pull the rope up and go back on belay to reduce rope drag, as is commonly done by folks trying to climb the entire Priming the Pump route.  The difficulty is about 5.11c, the rock quality and moves are great, and it has been free climbed on top rope.

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required);

The proposed route is located 20 feet left of Priming the Pump (5.11c) and begins where both Trad Kreme and Whipping Post start.  Routes further south, from left to right, include Pen 15, Super Kreme, Whipped Kreme, Rad Kreme, Undertow, Sweet Niblets, Hippopotamus, and Sick for Sleeping.  Routes to the north include Trad Kreme, Whipping Post, Cookies and Kreme, Sookreem, Boys with Power Toys, Family Man, Shalosh, Film Noir, Nasty Boys, and Just Another Boys Climb.

 A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);

The approach starts with the Fern Canyon Trail, heading towards Bear Peak.  Branch off on the climbing access trail a short distance beyond the Slab overlook area. Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the north and west faces of the Slab, heading uphill (south) another 2 minutes to the base of the proposed route. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);

The descent will be either a 70-foot rappel to the ground from the existing Priming the Pump first pitch anchor, or an approximate 110-foot rappel from the top of the second pitch of Priming the Pump.  The descent trail uses the same approach trail mentioned earlier.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);

The base is mostly rock and gravelly soils as shown in the “Staging” photo. The ground surface is very rocky and mostly devoid of vegetation, except for some trees nearby.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, the line has been thoroughly scoped and climbed free on top rope.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes it has been top roped, and there is little or no loose rock.  The first half is very steep and overhanging, though a top rope could be adequately set up using nearby directional protection.