Route Name: Sis Wife
Rock Formation: Hilbilly Rock
Number of Bolts to be Placed: approximately 11 lead bolts to double bolt anchors
Proposed Grade: estimated 5.13
Sis-Wife climbs the vertical to then very overhanging panel of rock right of the existing route Neph Son in the middle of the West Face of Hillbilly Rock—it is 10 feet right of Neph Son and 20 feet left of West Face (5.12c). The line climbs a hard boulder problem off the ground to a scoop/ledge, then moves up sustained, gently steepening terrain into the roof bands that cross the wall. Here, the route moves through the first roof via a scoop and layback flakes, then proceeds up the very overhanging headwall above before moving right across a final arête to finish along a well-featured layback corner/flake. The anchors will be at the lip of the wall, before it rounds over to slabby terrain.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in to be accompanied with the route description.
Description of Neighboring/Existing Routes:
The west face of Hillbilly Rock has five existing climbs. The leftmost one is Horsefly Hootenanny, a 5.13- on the upper left side of the west face. Then there is Uncle Dad (5.13b), which branches right off of Horsefly. Right again is Neph Son, which moves up the prow in the middle of the wall, 10 feet left of the proposed climb. West Face (5.12c) is located down and right 20 feet from the proposed line, and the rightmost route (West Face Right; 5.12a) is located another 40 feet downhill near the southwest margin of the wall. All are sport climbs, though West Face Right does have some moderate traditionally protected climbing to reach the first bolt.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes, and a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s).
Approach Description: The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail to the Mesa Trail, head south to where the Mesa Trail traverses Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber’s approach trail, then, 100 yards into the canyon, head due north up the first gully, between Hillbilly Rock and Ridge 1, to reach the west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber’s trail. The trail is on durable, hard-packed dirt and talus.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the approach, including: approximate distance(s) from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb, condition(s) of the trail(s), a description whether there is a durable surface, such as rock, and photographs of the approach.
Descent Description: The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area, and via the approach trail.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the descent, if different from the approach, using the same evaluation criteria.
Base Area Description: The staging area is a rock ledge against the wall, with compact dirt and rock behind it as you move slightly out from the wall.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the proposed route, including: existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, existing soil erosion, and photographs of the area at the base of the climb.
Description of Route Evaluation Efforts: The route has been inspected on toprope and rappel as best as possible, given the steepness of the wall, lack of directional gear (there are no cracks on the lower sections), and proximity of tall trees (dangerous for toproping) behind the line.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route in its entirety has not been toproped due to its very overhanging angle, lack of directional gear, and the presence of trees behind the wall you could swing into. It has, however, been inspected multiple times, including on rappel and from the neighboring climb Nephson, and some moves have been completed on toprope on the upper section. The estimated difficulty is 5.13. The line has a few flakes in the first roof band that will that need to be removed, but is otherwise on clean, solid rock. The line is extremely overhanging – 20 to 25 degrees.
The City of Boulder OSMP expects for the person(s) proposing the new route to to perform all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any unapproved hardware.
Additional Notes from the Authors: none