Nattiq

Route Name: Nattiq
Rock Formation: Seal Rock
Number of Bolts to be Placed: P1: 10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor; P2: 10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.
Proposed Grade: P1: 5.10-; P2: 5.13-


Route Description: 
The proposed route is a fully independent two-pitch line starting on the right side of the North Face of Seal Rock.  It starts approximately 120-feet uphill from Archaeopteryx and about 40-feet to the right of the new proposed route North Arete.  The closest the line comes to an adjacent route is at the end of the second pitch, where it is about 20 to 30 feet to the right and above the proposed North Arete route.

The first pitch follows the line of least resistance over the expansive low angled slab through folds and scoops and is approximately 5.9+/5.10- in difficulty.  The second pitch tackles the overhang approaching it from the right side and exits through the prominent left facing flake at the lip of the roof.  The upper section on the second pitch trends up and left above the flake by face climbing to an overhanging bulge which is the logical end of the line.  This upper section is approximately 5.12- in difficulty.  The face climbing and pulling the roof onto the left facing flake is estimated to be mid-5.12 to 5.13- in difficulty.


A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
 The North Face of Seal Rock has 4 existing routes and one proposed route besides this application:

  1. The Hinge (aka Side Door): is a two-pitch line supposed to be 13a or 13b. This route shares the first pitch of Yellow Door, then goes straight up the vertical face to anchors at the lip.
  2. Yellow Door (original version): is a two-pitch climb, with the first pitch rated 12c and the second pitch rated 13a.  The route is mostly bolted, but takes gear at the start of the first pitch and end of the second pitch. [The recommended way of climbing Yellow Door is to finish on Sea of Joy, which makes the second pitch 13b)].
  3. Sea of Joy:  a three-pitch route that starts about 100’ right of Yellow Door.  It is rated 13a and is mostly bolted, but takes some gear on the first pitch.
  4. Archaeopteryx:  This 5.11+ trad route starts about 20 feet right of Yellow Door up a ramp on the slab to left facing flakes then through the overhang follows a left-facing corner on the upper face *See attachment Seal Rock3 w/ALL ROUTES
  5. North Arete: a new proposed two-pitch route that takes a direct line from the center of the North Face to the North summit of Seal Rock. It stays on the right side of the upper arete (around the corner from Archeopteryx) to the summit.  This line is the closest to this proposed route as its second pitch climbs below and to the left of this route’s upper anchor.


A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.):
 The approach is up the designated trail to the base of Seal Rock, and then up the climbers’ trail to the North side of Seal Rock. This is the same trail used to access all the existing climbs on the North face of Seal Rock. The start of the climb is about 120 feet further uphill than the start for Archaeopteryx. This is also the descent route for all routes on the East face of Seal Rock.


If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.): 
The proposed route finishes at a two-bolt anchor approximately 30 feet below and to the left of the saddle formed between the North summit and the lower NW summit. The recommended descent is to be lowered from this anchor to the ground if the leader is being belayed from the anchor at the top of the first pitch. The leader cannot be lowered from the top anchor to the ground if belayed from the ground with standard size ropes (a 100-meter rope should work but has not been confirmed). It is possible to rappel to the ground from the second pitch anchor with two 60-meter ropes. Once on the ground the descent trail is the same climbers’ trail used to approach the North Face.


A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.): 
The base of the climb is composed of compact dirt and loose rock interspersed with random pine trees.


Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? 
Reconnaissance has been done over multiple days to inspect the line and then to climb the individual pitches.


Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging? 
The lower and upper pitches have been top roped individually over two separate days. The first pitch was top roped in full, whereas the second pitch was only top roped from the lip of the overhang to the top of the pitch. The section from the proposed location of the first pitch anchor up to the lip of the overhang was not top roped due to the steep and overhanging nature. It was not possible to place directional natural gear in this section to get a closer look. The first pitch does not contain any loose rock, but some rock off-route approximately 10 to 15 feet to the right on the first pitch upper section appears fragile. The upper pitch from the lip of the overhang to the anchors does not contain any loose rock. The section below the overhang was visually inspected on rappel and from below while top roping the first pitch. This middle section does not appear to have any loose rock.


Additional notes: 
The natural line of climbing on the upper pitch trends left from the end of the first pitch so it requires a second top rope anchor located on the North summit to access the second pitch. The top rope anchor for the first pitch is located approximately 40 feet below the North summit and about 30 feet to the right on the shoulder of the NW summit.

6 replies
  1. Chandler VS
    Chandler VS says:

    Looks great- I had TR’d more or less the same line a while back, but went right up the arete after the big block thing (where this route goes left up the flake) – I support this route, especially as there could be an “alternate finish” put in at some point that would go at more like 12c and be super quality as well.

    Reply

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