Friday’s Folly Wall

There are numerous routes on the Third Flatiron ranging from historic traditional lines with scant natural protection to bolt intensive lines up more difficult terrain. The proposed route is on the large, untracked Friday’s Folly Wall (west end of the south face of the Third Flatiron). It is well separated from two traditional lines: Friday’s Folly (5.7) to the left and Pentaprance (5.10+) to the right. The proposed route is a 90’ sport route, starting at the lowest point of the wall and ending at a double bolt anchor about 30’ below the Friday’s Folly rappel bolt/ledge. The climbing is continuously interesting at 5.9 and 5.10, with a short 5.11- crux just below the anchors.

 A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);

 The approach takes the standard Third Flatiron descent trail to the notch at the west end of the Flatiron, followed by a short descent to the base of the wall on the route that accesses the routes on the south face of the Third Flatiron. The entire trail is well established and has a durable surface.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.); 

The descent uses the same trail as the approach.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);

The staging area at the base of the climb is large and flat with a hard surface of rock and compacted soil with minor vegetation. There is little to no soil erosion directly at the base of the route.  (see route photo).

 Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has undoubtedly been top-roped several times over the past 30 years. It has also been top-roped recently by the applicants to determine the location of the bolts. The rock is solid; it is slightly overhanging only for the first 10’. 

Any additional notes

We debated whether to extend the route another 30’ to the Friday’s Folly ledge. Doing so would require a 70 m rope for lowering and would also entail considerable rope drag. Note that a double bolt anchor 30’ below the Friday’s Folly ledge would provide another descent route from the summit of the Third Flatiron (three rappels) that could be done with a single 60 m rope. This option could alleviate traffic jams on the descent.

6 replies
  1. Tony Bubb
    Tony Bubb says:

    If there is a stance at the proposed belay, why not put in the anchor and still ‘finish’ the climb to the Friday’s ledge?
    Seems like a good line, but why not just make it go?

    Reply
  2. Tony Bubb
    Tony Bubb says:

    To the above question, the FA party contacted me and answered:
    “(We) deliberated a long time about where to end the route. I originally imagined that the route would end at the eyebolt on the ledge. But there are a few disadvantages to extending the route that far.
    · The climbing is not too exciting above our proposed anchors.
    · It’s nearly impossible to pull the rope through the eyebolt, so lowering and belaying would be difficult.
    · The proposed location for the anchor makes the route doable with a 60 m rope. ”
    ————-

    That makes sense to me and I vote ‘yes’ on this route.

    Reply
  3. Matt Samet
    Matt Samet says:

    Looks like a great line and a nice addition to the west side of the Third — a good companion route to the West Buttress. Vote yes.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *