2008 Applications
New Fixed Anchor Atop Bidoigt
June 24, 2008
Dinosaur Mountain, Der Freischutz
Application date: 6/24/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route anchors would be atop the existing climb Bidoigt, on the west face of Der Freischutz, Dinosaur Mountain. This is an existing mixed-protection (two bolts, plus small gear) lead immediately left of the popular 5.11 Drugs, and goes at 5.10a.
At present, the only sport lowering/rappel anchor on this part of Der Freischutz is atop Drugs, about 15 feet right of Bidoigt and lower than the finish to Bidoigt — too far to the side and too low to be of use Bidoigt. So, when you complete Bidoigt, you have to top out the formation and seek natural-protection anchors (the best, most reliable option is a summit horn, about 50 feet back and that often has in situ slings; there are some less-reliable natural-gear options closer to the top of Bidoigt), bring up your second, then descend off the summit horn or down-climb to the Drugs anchors and then rappel.
As Dinosaur is known for its sport/cragging, there is precedent for having convenient lower-off anchors. The proposed anchors would be sited high enough that you still have to complete the lead, having no effect on the character of the traditionally protected climbing on Bidoigt’s upper third.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Please accept this application.
yes.
I vote yes
Fun route in need of Anchors.
Yes.
yes
yes
yes
Yes, anchors needed!
Yes!
Yes
Please accept this as it is needed
yes indeed
Yes, anchors are good
absolutely. yes.
yes please.
yes on these anchors
separate sport climbs, seperate anchors. Seems reasonable.
Yes, separate anchors are needed. It is quite difficult to get over to the anchors on Drugs.
Most place gear on upper section anyway, so should have necessary gear and know-how to set up good anchors (double tunnel thread, etc) to be able to top-rope or bring up second. No.
Yes
Yes
Safety when lowering / rappeling is very important. Yes for anchors.
Direct West Face aka Western Skyline, 5.11b
October 3, 2008
Third Flatiron, Direct West Face
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route lies on the narrow west face of the Third Flatiron between the West Face route and Saturday’s Folly. It follows the first 20 feet of Saturday’s Folly, then moves left onto a beautiful steep prow that splits the west fact. The route then joins the existing West Face route after about 60 feet of climbing and four bolts (5.11b). It follows the existing West Face route for about 25 feet through an overhang and up an elegant finger crack to a ledge, all protected with good gear (5.10). The new route continues on easier ground for 20 feet, moves to the left (north) side of the steep prow, and turns a final overhang on spectacular moves protected by three more bolts (5.11b). The route finishes on a large ledge directly below the summit of the Flatiron where good anchors can be placed with gear.
Requiring only seven bolts, the route provides a full pitch of superb climbing with unrivaled position. At its grade, the route is accessible to many climbers. The route begins at the end of the standard north-side approach trail and it shares a staging area with Saturday’s Folly and Friday’s Folly. So we expect no new areas of impact from this route.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Please accept this application.
Sounds good.
Looks good — a vote for Yes.
I vote yes
Yes, would be amazing position.
yes
yes
I had the opportunity to toprope this line, and it is outstanding.
Yes, a welcome addition.
Yes.
Sweet, new line! Yesssssssssss!!!
Yes
Cautious of new bolt but this seems reasonable since not much natural protection exists.
looks great
No, climbs through popular rappels. Easy to top rope.
Yes, Looks like an instant classic.
yes. sounds good.
yes sir
I vote yes for this route and the proposed bolt protection. This new proposal addresses the previous concerns of crowding in on existing lines and distracting from the natural gear protection of the adjacent routes.
Looks good. This submission has some history and met with some minor resistance in its first submission. MUCH to the credit of the submitter, the initial objections of the closeness of bolts to an existing line has been addressed and I think that this is a great proposal.
Looks great! I vote yes!
Yes, nice one!
Looks good as long as the existing rappels are not effected. Route should not climb on the rappel route
Yes
Do it
New 5.12+/13- on The Slab, West Face
October 3, 2008
The Slab, 98 Degrees
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab and starts approximately 10 feet right of Undertow and angles right, away from Undertow. The top of the proposed route is approximately 30 feet right (and slightly above) Undertow‘s finish. The proposed climb is 80 feet in length and goes at 5.12d/13a.
This overhanging route has been redpointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The route starts out with the technical crux off the ground with a V6/7 move (~13a) followed by sustained climbing in the range of 11+ to easy-5.12 to reach the anchors.
The rock quality varies from good to perfect, on interesting, featured Fountain sandstone, and the bouldery nature of the crux should entertain anyone looking for a finger workout. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines, and the staging area is the same as that for Undertow – a rock ledge, accessed via the climber’s trail along the base of the west face (common descent path for the east-face climbs, too). No new impact(s) will be added to the crag base.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Bolt it!
A good addition to a wall that should have at least 2-3 more routes.
Please accept this application.
Sounds good.
YES. Sounds great.
do it
Great addition to a great wall.
yes
Looks killer, bolt it.
Sweet, new line! Yesssssssssss!!!
Yes, good looking route
Would be a great addition to Flatiron sport climbing! Just do it.
please do, yes.
yes
yes yes
I had the opportunity to try this line on top-rope and it is a good addition to the cliff. I vote yes.
Yes, This wall has so much potential and I see no harm is using it.
This climb looks great. Hard boulder problem at the bottom followed by sustained climbing until the end. A great addition to the area.
Bolt it, so Thad can send it.
Shalosh, 5.12a
October 3, 2008
The Slab, North Face
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the north face of The Slab and begins about 30 feet right of Just Another Boy’s Climb, and 15 feet left of the newer (spring 2008) route Family Man. It climbs an independent line and finishes at a natural end spot, atop a buttress below a large hanging flake where the wall’s angle eases off. The route is approximately 75 feet long and the application is for 9 or 10 bolts; it has been toproped at 5.12a/b.
The proposed route climbs an initial slab at 5.8/5.9 past 2 bolts up to an overhang, which goes at 5.11 b/c; three bolts will protect this overhanging section. Here the route moves up and right along a narrow ledge at 5.7. There is a good finger-sized crack that would take a solid piece of gear to protect this middle section, but it would be the only natural gear on the pitch. The applicant says he’d prefer to use a bolt, since the Slab is primarily a sport cliff. There is some precedent for mixed bolts/gear climbs on the Slab: the upper hand crack on Just Another Boys Climb protects with multiple cams, and you can put in a #3 Camalot (optional) before the final bolt on Undertow. In either case on the proposed climb, you’d want either the cam or a bolt on this easier section to protect against ground fall.
The upper section will require 4 more protection bolts to the anchor. The crux, 5.12a/b, will be at the last bolt. The last two bolts will be spaced fairly closely (within five feet of each other), both to adequately protect the crux moves and to allow climbers to hangdog through with little trouble. A two-bolt anchor will be located in solid rock just below a large hanging flake.
The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall and does not encroach on any existing routes. The moves are more facey and vertical than some of the other climbs on the Slab. There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route, and the staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy’s Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
DRILL IT!
Please accept this application.
My vote is yes.
yes to the route. For this route, I vote yes to fully bolted the route. No trad gear needed.
yes
A vote for yes. OK either way – fully bolted or with the one piece – but I think it will have more character with the gear.
Fantastic, Yes.
yes
yes – all bolts
Yes, drill it.
Drill it before it gets the children. yes!!!!!
Yes, Great looking line.
Looks like a good route. I vote yes on this one.
looks good. yes.
yes
Yes, use the gear when possible
do it, now
I vote yes, using bolts and gear.
Yes, looks fantastic.
Yes, the only problem I have with gear in this case is someone may not know you need a piece, go for it and fall, and that would suck.
Nice line. Please drill it.
yes.
sookrEEm, 5.13b
October 3, 2008
The Slab, North Face
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the North Face of the Slab and starts approximately 20 feet right of Boys with Power Toys. The climb moves up a face, to bulging rock, to a hanging slab. A final roof and easier slab take you to existing anchors (installed before the bolting ban, along with two directional bolts) about 20 feet diagonally right, and up, from the Power Toys anchor bolts. The route is 85 feet in length and goes at 5.13b. It has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.
The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles). The proposal is to use 10 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors and top directional bolt where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, as well as move the lower directional bolt about three feet left, where it will be easier to clip. These two bolts will comprise two of the 10 proposed clips. Existing bolts are marked in green on the photo, while red are the proposed new clips.
The route starts out with the two bolts of 5.11 face climbing to a bulging headwall of purple stone riddled with faint corners. Five bolts of continuous climbing (5.13) take you through this terrain, which eases toward 5.12 as you near the hanging slab. A small rest below the finishing roof allows some pause and a clip, then 5.12- climbing over the roof and a small crux standing up take you to 5.9 climbing (final bolt) to finish.
The rock quality is excellent, and the route doesn’t compromise any existing routes or add impact to the crag base – it’s accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy’s Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys. The staging area – a flat place in the trees — is the same as for these climbs, as well.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Bolt It!!
This is a beautiful independent line and would be a great addition to The Slab.
Please accept this application.
looks amazing boys! I would love to see this get bolted. Vote yes for this route!
Looks great. Yes.
I was just up there a couple of days ago and looked at the pending line. I think the rock quality at the Slab is some of the best in the flatirons and more routes going up are welcome.
Yes to the route and all bolts.
yes
Yes, and yes.
looks sweet, hook it up – yes!
Flatirons Resurgence!!! Drill
Yes, what a good looking piece of rock.
Nice addition to the cliff. When will the bolting begin?
looks perfect. yes.
yes please be careful with your comments (above). This process is being allowed because of hard work between climbers and land managers. Sloppiness is what got us here in the 1st place. thanks
great rock, perfect setting, completely agree…
I vote yes for this route. It is a great line with sustained climbing and clean rock. More importantly the line represents the fact that climbers are willing to wait twenty years to finish aborted projects and do respect the OSMP rules and regulations.
Drill baby, Drill
Yes.
Please bolt this, it looks like a great line!
Looks nice, bolt it
